This tree is on 16th Ave in Capitol Hill not far from my house and stands out on the street with its riot of blossoms. Bulbs like daffodils are also popular in my neighborhood.
Friday
My license plate tags arrived, so my old Camry is now good until 2012 (seems so far away, but it’s not really, right?). It was a beautiful blue sky day here in Seattle (photo taken at the corner of Denny and Fairview). I bought the letter opener in Seoul’s Incheon airport on the way in on my last trip. Very handy. Now I can avoid getting paper cuts on my finger when opening my pile of junk mail ! (Yes, I should just throw it away but some have credit card offers in which I take out and shred).
Thursday night/ A Hard Rain’s A-Gonna Fall
The Korean Air plane at Hong Kong airport was at the gate next to our Asiana Air plane. My three checked bags as well as I made the 45 min connection in Seoul – I had to make a run for Gate 49 ! and here I am in Seattle. It was raining all over South Korea and the newspaper reported that a large number of schools closed for the day, over concerns of radioactive particles from Japan coming down in the rain. Well, I thought — and what about the air conditioning at the airport, and the airplane? .. should I care?. Let me sit back and drink my Korean pilsner beer (called Cass, probably too light and mild for most beer lovers, but I liked it fine). As always I kept an eye on our flight path over Japan. We flew almost directly over Tokyo, then turned north, brushed by the Aleution islands in the North Pacific and then down to Seattle.
P.S. Yes, I refer to the 1962 Bob Dylan song in the title of the post. I love the words, but note that Bob Dylan is on record to have said he did not refer to nuclear fall-out or rain from that, in the song. The opening lyrics :
Oh, where have you been, my blue-eyed son ?
And where have you been my darling young one ?
I’ve stumbled on the side of twelve misty mountains
I’ve walked and I’ve crawled on six crooked highways
I’ve stepped in the middle of seven sad forests
I’ve been out in front of a dozen dead oceans
I’ve been ten thousand miles in the mouth of a graveyard
And it’s a hard, it’s a hard, it’s a hard, and it’s a hard
It’s a hard rain’s a-gonna fall.
Thursday/ at Hong Kong airport
I made it to Hong Kong airport after taking care not to slide in my Dameisha hotel bathroom (picture of the sign posted in there). : ) Even at 9 in the morning we still got held up in Shenzhen traffic, but I allowed plenty of time to get to the airport. I’m flying back through Seoul, South Korea and then on to Seattle.
Wednesday/ going home
The first two pictures are from Tuesday. They show the departure hall at Terminal 3 at Beijing Capital International Airport. Condé Nast Traveler magazine named Beijing Capital International as the World’s Best Airport in 2009 ! Terminal 3 is very large, second only to Dubai International Airport’s Terminal 3, says Wikipedia.
Everything was gray upon our arrival at Shenzhen airport (this is around 6pm in the evening)- the airplane, the tarmac, the building, the sky. Shenzhen’s Bao’an International Airport is more convenient than Hong Kong for connections to cities in China from the south, but the airport has work to do to improve its limited spoken English. (Admittedly I may have work to do to improve my Mandarin).
I’m staying one more night in the Pattaya Hotel in Dameisha before going home tomorrow. Yes!
Monday night/ Beijing at night
A colleague of mine on the project lives in Beijing came by the hotel and picked me up for a hot-pot dinner. Those are flowers that I’m holding that went into the hot pot along with mushrooms, tofu, green leafy veggies and little hand-rolled balls of ground beef, pork and chicken. The liquid in the pot is actually a mushroom soup .. all very very good! (Did I have some famous Beijing duck? asked people back at work. No – I’ll catch the duck next time. Best to be part of a group since in many restaurants they serve up a whole duck). The spectacular arch building belongs to China Central Television (CCTV) and is in the central business district. The ones on the next picture are from banks and insurers.
After dinner we stopped at a plaza called The Place also in the Beijing CBD. The LED screen was the biggest in the world at one time. (I suspect the four-screen high-definition LED display that now hangs above the center of the pitch in the Dallas Cowboys’ football stadium is bigger. Or is there a bigger one already in Dubai?) And check out the welcoming message on the screen that my colleague texted to me from his phone !
The final picture is of the Forbidden City’s entrance at night.
Monday/ The Great Wall
It took a 5 hour round trip from my hotel to make it to the The Great Wall and back, but I had to do it. Cannot come to China as many times as I do and not go to the Great Wall, right? The first picture I borrowed from Wikipedia because it offers several insights : that the wall started as several walls built by different emperors, was built over a long period of time (of course) and is not one continuous wall. The section I visited is a reconstruction, as are all the tourist view points to some extent. I hired a driver and guide from the hotel and they took me to south east of Jinshanling, the Mutianyu section of the wall (a white dot on the map below). It is some 70km to the north and east of the city (my Google Latitude location was taken at the Wall). The driver took the less-traveled roads which saved us from getting stuck in traffic. It can easily take two hours one way.
Lanes of willow trees along the way starting to bud in spite of the very dry weather (typical in spring). The next two pictures shows one of several gates indicating the name and entrance to villages along the way.
Here is the arrival point at the Wall. I passed on sitting on the deck to sample the pure Italian coffee (sign on the right). I also did not buy anything ! The next picture shows a steep and somewhat hairy ski lift ride up to the Wall. One can also walk up there. My excuse for not doing that is that I was short on time ! Then there is a toboggan slide which one can take on the way down (on the left). I was game to do that but the line was very long, so we just took the ski lift back. There are sections of this part of the wall that are amazingly steep. And of course the Wall has to be built on the ridges of mountainous terrain – it cannot be built in a valley since that would invite a bridge to be constructed right over it.
Sunday/ The Forbidden City
This China Daily newspaper article puts everything nicely in perspective : the Forbidden City lies on a north-south axis from the Bird’s Next stadium down to the Temple of Heaven. (Click once on the picture to enlarge it). It also reports that Beijing will speed up the protection of its cultural sites over the next 5 years even though it already applied for World Cultural Heritage status. (Kind of shocking that these sites do not already have that status).
These sites are very large, each occupying dozens of large city blocks, so one needs walking shoes ! I managed to get to the Forbidden City, Tian’anmen Square and the Temple of Heaven in about 6 hrs and then called it a day.
These two pictures are right by the JW Marriott hotel, the Da Wang Lu station on Line 1 and the Deutsche Bank Towers right next to the China Central shopping mall and Starbucks Coffee. In the day the trains are crowded but I preferred to deal with that instead of being stuck in a taxi in traffic in the city! In 2010, the Beijing Subway delivered over 1.6 billion rides, including a single-day record of 6.82 million on March 4, 2011. All but two of Beijing Subway’s 14 lines were built within the past decade.
The next set of pictures are from the Forbidden City. The Forbidden City was the Chinese imperial palace during the Ming dynasty and for some 500 years. It’s a world-famous place along with the Palace of Versailles in France, Buckingham Palace in England, the White House in the U.S. and the Kremlin in Russia. It is located in the middle of Beijing and now houses what is called the Palace Museum. The front entrance with Chairman Mao’s portrait is free and opens into a big plaza. Inside vendors sell China flags, maps and food and drink. (Next picture) 200 years ago the price for access to the Forbidden City would have been immediate death but now it is only 60RMB ($US10) !
This is the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihe Dian) – the grandest hall in the palace and the largest wooden structure in China. There are 11 gargoyle-like creatures on the curved corner of the roof, the most of any of the halls, indicating is importance.
This plate is on one of the many doors inside the gates in the complex.
The next few pictures are from Tian’anmen Square to the immediate south of the Forbidden City. Tiananmen Square is the largest city square in the world (440,000 m² – 880m by 500m). It has great cultural significance as it was the site of several important events in Chinese history. My pictures below in sequence are of the China Museum, the Monument to the People’s Heroes and a monument in front of Mao’s Mausoleum.
The final few pictures are from the ‘Temple of Heaven’ park .. a large park with open spaces and several structures. It was constructed from 1406 to 1420 and visited by emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties and used for annual ceremonies to pray to Heaven for good harvests.
Saturday/ arrived in Beijing 北京
Well, I’m out of the apartment, into a hotel in Dameisha (view from the hotel room shown, what a beautiful day) and went to Shenzhen airport at noon for the 3 hr plane trip to Beijing. A fellow project team member lives in Beijing and we shared a taxi and sat next to each other on the plane. That’s an Air China plane, like the one we took, and the Terminal 3 building at Beijing Capital Airport with the skylight windows looking like dragon scales. (The airplane window is scratched, not my camera lens!). That’s my colleague’s handwritten instructions with my hotel name for the taxi driver. Let me just note that watching someone write Chinese characters is like watching a magic trick unfold in front of one’s very eyes. : )
The next few pictures all show the sun setting in a cloudless sky, coloring it into beautiful shades of pink and orange. The outskirts of Beijing actually reminded me a lot of the winter sunsets we had in South Africa where I grew up! (A town called Vereeniging, an hour’s drive from Johannesburg). There are 5 ring roads (freeways) around the city and the hotel (my Google Latitude location in the picture) is toward the east of the Forbidden City, which is at the center of Beijing.
Friday/ kicked out!
Here’s a message to all those financial planners that opine that it’s not ‘really’ necessary to own a place to live/ better to rent a place. My advice : if you can afford it, it actually is. I had an apologetic colleague that handles our project team’s apartment leases, and a non-apologetic aloof property agent knock on the door last night. There was a mistake and my lease had actually expired Mar 31 and, AND : the landlord insisted that the apartment be evacuated immediately. Whoah! I said. What exactly does ‘immediately’ mean? Do I have two hours? You’re going to kick me out with the clothes on my back and with my dinner cooking in the toaster oven? (It was just toast with cheese but hey, that was dinner and they interrupted it).
Several phone calls later we managed to I get agreement that I could stay one more night to pack up my stuff. So this is Saturday morning, and I’m ready to move into the hotel next door. And I’m not canceling my trip to Beijing. I’m flying there this afternoon and I will have Sunday and Monday to check out the city and the Great Wall. Let’s go!
Thursday/ adopt a turtle?
8.00am Friday The little turtle was a project team member’s apartment pet as far as I could find out – possibly found somewhere on the streets here in Dameisha. It has already been handed over to another caretaker, who is now also leaving the project. It looks like a water turtle and ideally it should get a nice big fish tank with some decoration to mimic its natural surroundings like those we see at zoos or aquariums ! Maybe the little fella should just be set free if it can take care of itself.
Update 1.00pm Friday The little turtle has found a happy home ! .. was adopted by a team member who’s daughter has two others already. Hopefully he will fit in and it’s not a case of two’s company, three’s a crowd !
Wednesday/ booking travel on-line in China
The two big web sites for booking airfare inside China are Ctrip.com and eLong.com (pictures below from the eLong site). eLong.com is affiliated with the USA’s Expedia.com (‘the world’s largest travel company’ it calls itself). Why didn’t I just use Expedia? The fare I looked at was $100 cheaper on eLong.com. With the eLong website I could pay with my US credit card the way we do on websites in the USA, with credit card validation and payment authorization done in the background. The Ctrip site needed a faxed or e-mailed copy of a form I needed to print and sign, pictures of the front and back of my credit card, as well my passport picture page. No! Too much work! and I felt I would put my credit card information at risk for abuse (more so than entering the number on a secure website). But both sites charge a 3% credit card fee on top of the ticket price.
And where am I headed? I have Beijing and the Great Wall of China in my sights for the upcoming Chinese holiday weekend. The project team is taking a break before the final push to get our system up and operative in May.
Tuesday/ team dinner
We went out to dinner in Shenzhen last night, not too far north of where I stayed this weekend. The area had plenty of restaurants, many decorated with festive red lanterns. The first picture is of a traffic jam made by an inept driver maneuvering in the middle of the street OR trying to park right there on the corner! We were at the Victory Restaurant (the sign is from the restaurant right next to it). Their signature dish is “The General Crosses the Bridge’ : a whole pork rib served upside down to look like a bridge. We each had a little piece and it was delicious. The horse is from the restaurant lobby.
Monday/ at the grocery store
This picture is from the newspaper at the grocery store. The gas mask makes for an otherworldly, other-creature look out of our collective nightmares, does it not? And of course a gas mask can just filter out radio-active airborne particles. It doesn’t really protect against the radiation itself .. or maybe some masks have a lead lining? (I’m sure the picture is from Japan since we’re not under any threat of any possible radiation from the troubled reactor there). The second picture is a happier one – of the kid running rice through his hands. No harm done since the rice will be cooked, and if only it were as easy as that to get rid of contamination!
Sunday/ Shenzhen entertainment
Just a few more pictures I collected for fun in Shenzhen over the weekend.
1. The brand new Don’t go breaking my heart movie (named after the 1976 Elton John-Kiki Dee duet? not sure) showing in the Golden Harvest Cinema. I wasn’t brave enough to go and see it (thought it would be all in Chinese) but I see the trailer at http://www.mediaasia.com/dontgobreakingmyheart/ does have English sub-titles (and yes – totally what we would call a chick flick in the USA).
2. Looks like there’s scuba diving at the start and a cocktail party at the end of the blue line of this schematic of the Shenzhen metro lines ! The Eiffel Tower is a miniture one, from the Window of the World theme park.
3. Or there’s always Starbucks for coffee, this board from the location at Coco Park shopping mall . Here is a partial translation : 星巴克 xīng bā kè is Starbucks and 40 周年 zhōunián is 40 th anniversary of Starbucks/ 可可 kěkě is cocoa and 卡布奇诺kǎbùqínuò is cappuccino – the drink denoted by the characters in the five pink stars/ 巧克力 qiǎokèlì chocolate – an ingredient in one of the popsicle cakes/ (T)all (G)rande (V)enti – Starbucks for large/ even larger/ and enormous.
4. The model for a cell phone advertiser on a phone booth on the sidewalk is borrowing the iconic pose from Marilyn Monroe in movie The Seven Year Itch (1955).
Saturday/ a Hong Kong hello
Here’s the view from my hotel room on the 26th floor. The green hills in the background is the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR), and the waterway in the background is the border between mainland China and Hong Kong SAR. So here is how you do it to go to Hong Kong ‘on foot’ from Shenzhen. Take the Shenzhen Metro to the Luohu Port, walk through the China customs, then Hong Kong customs, then hop on to the Hong Kong Metro. It is totally worth to pay extra to sit in the First Class compartment, because it’s a 40 min ride into the city. For me, the Tsim Tsa Tsui station in Kowloon is where you want to go if you only have a few hours.
The last Saturday in March is time for Earth Hour, so the picture shows a little media event getting ready to watch the skyscrapers across Victoria Harbor go dark. I walked around some more to check out the people and the scenery in Kowloon. The ‘Power of Imagination’ billboard is advertising Canon digital cameras. I love it even though no camera will ever take a picture of a guy dressed in Goth with red roses and ravens in the sky, and penguins and mountain goats in the garden of a 17th century palace. The next picture is for the movie Sucker Punch, an American action-fantasy flick with an ensemble female cast, shot in Los Angeles and Vancouver. One of the stars is Jamie Chung, a second-generation Korean American from San Francisco.
And then in the Swindon bookstore I just had to snap the cover picture of the children’s book with the Big Bad Wolf about to eat a surprised little Red Riding Hood with her red cheeks. The wolf put a big smile on my face : ).
Friday/ escape to Shenzhen
The project team got the weekend off – we needed it! I could not get a hotel room at a decent rate in Hong Kong because of the Sevens Rugby Tournament there, so just to get out out my apartment I came to Shenzhen for the weekend.
Pictures . . Texting ‘We’re stuck in traffic?’ I’m watching you : ) / Finally arriving at the Hyatt Hotel / Inside the luxury shopping mall by the hotel; no shoppers in sight on a Friday night, though / They are all outside enjoying the spring weather / The Di Wang*building aka Shun Hing Square which I have shown before.. / .. sending out a single green laser beam at times; not sure what the purpose of this is. In Hong Kong some skyscrapers put on a whole laser show at times/ and as I noted before the ‘King of the Land’ is about to be dethroned by the King Key Financial Plaza building. That’s the Agricultural Bank of China building in front of it.
*it means King of the Land
Thursday/ Nin Jiom Pei Pa Koa
What is that you have there on the desk, Shan Shui? I asked my China colleague today. Herbal tea? Chinese candy? No, no. It’s a very old and famous Chinese cough syrup and available world-wide. (I haven’t seen it in the USA but if I do, I’ll buy it just to get a hold of the cool packaging it comes in).
‘Nim Jiom’ means ‘in memory of my mother’. The formula for Pei Pa Koa was originally created by doctor Ip Tin-See, a physician for the Qing Dynasty. Yang Jin, a county commander, asked doctor Ip to treat his mother’s persistent cough. They were so impressed that they created a factory to mass-produce it.
Are you ready for the list of ingredients of Pei Pa Koa syrup? You have to be ready! – it is an impressive list ! The blend of herbal ingredients include the fritillary bulb, loquat leaf, ladybell root, Indian bread, pomelo peel, Chinese bellflower root, pinellia rhizome, Schisandra seed, Trichosanthes seed, coltsfoot flower, thinleaf milkwort root, bitter apricot kernel, fresh ginger, licorice root and menthol – all in a syrup-and-honey base. The base gives the cough syrup a palatable taste. Maybe I should try a little of it tomorrow?
P.S. This is the flag of the Qing dynasty. I love the dragon on it.
Wednesday/ ein Erdinger Bier, bitte!
‘An Erdinger beer, please’ is what I said tonight in the Dameisha Sheraton hotel. Three of us had a beer and dinner there. Below is what landed on the table in front of me. The server painstakingly poured the beer into a glass and it formed a thick white foamy head. The beer is a golden cloudy color (the fine unfermented yeast one finds in heffeweizens) and has citrus-sy notes in the taste. I liked it. Cheers !
Tuesday/ rooting for Japan
This picture is from the Financial Times that I got on the airplane last Thursday. David Pilling writes in the accompanying editorial with the heading ‘The Japanese Miracle is Not Over’ that .. the grave faces of public officials cannot have looked much graver in 1945, after the nuclear bombs fell and Emperor Hirohito went on the radio to ask his countrymen to endure the unendurable. On Wednesday his son, Emperor Akihito, made a rare live television appearance to ask his people to work together to ‘overcome these difficult times’.
The recent events also made me recall a striking TIME magazine cover about Japan from when I was a student, and I just had to look it up. Found it – the cover of August 1, 1983. A lot has happened with Japan since that year : greatly inflated real estate and stock prices from 1986 to 1991 followed by a decade-long recession. I really hope things are looking up from here for Japan and its people.
From the TIME magazine article:
The Japanese postwar economic miracle is cresting. Japan is a fascinating success, as a business and as a society. It is prosperous and famously homogeneous, safe and civil, bound together by a social contract that is startlingly effective.
Today, Japan is the second most powerful economy in the free world. Its trillion-dollar-a-year industrial machine accounts for 10% of the world’s output. By 1990, the Japanese may achieve a per capita gross national product that surpasses that of the U.S. – Lance Morrow writing for TIME magazine’s Aug 1, 1983 issue